The application of Denoise AI prior to SRDx dust and scratch removal is beneficial as it makes the defects stand out better and SRDx often does a better job of finding dust and scratches with a lower detection threshold.I have around 2000 35mm slides that I want to scan for archival purposes. Remarkably, with careful setting you can both reduce grain and improve sharpness, and if Denoise AI creates artifacts, use the AI Clear processing option instead. I have also found that Topaz Denoise AI does a great job of reducing film grain with T-Max shot at ISO 100. much faster than anything else I've used. Spend some time figuring out the threshold setting and use the Photoshop Spot Healing and Clone Tools to clean up. My experience with SRDx has been very good. I recently started using Silverfast's SRDx Photoshop plug-in 'filter' to reduce dust and scratches which are a real pain to remove from scanned B/W film (both before scanning and in post-processing). I use it with my Minolta Scan Multi Pro to scan T-Max film shot with a Pentax 67 camera developed in T-Max developer. For now I will use SF because I already have the license for the scanner but if I were to start from scratch or upgrade my scanner I would probably go down the VS route and work with my RAW workflow. A huge advantage of VS is that you can use it which any scanner you have where SF requires a license for each specific scanner you have (if you want to upgrade down the line you will need to purchase a new license). Vuescan also allows you to scan multiple passes of your Negative and combine to help reduce grain (actually not sure if SF has a similar feature). VS will also allow you to scan multiple exposures and scan RAW files (both TIFF and DNG as well). Just a note, if you do decide you rather go down the route of Scanning 48bit RAW files consider Vuescan Pro. I suppose you can just set SF to scan to a 16bit tiff, flat scan, still get the dust and scratches removal, and adjust in post (use the histogram here to make sure you are not clipping any shadow or highlight info). SF is really intended to do everything to your negative like dust and scratches removal, color correction, sharpening, ect. I have recently switched my workflow to scanning 48bit RAW files and doing the work in Photoshop so I don't take advantage of all the features in SF. The two most important features in the upgrade are 1) Multi Exposure tool which will extend the dynamic range your scanner can capture from your negatives especially with positive film 2) you can scan at higher bit depth including 48bit RAW files (saved wither as TIFF or DNG). The Ai upgrade version unlocks more features which are worth considering if you want to get the most out of your negative. I believe the SE version gives you limited functionality. I have been using Silverfast for years but not an expert (I always need a refresher as I don't use it that often). But the basics of setting approximate black and white end points and turn sharpening off. Of course the scanner is going to affect how well you can record subtle highlight and shadow details so what works on my scanner might be something a little different that what your Epson can record. Then, after bring the scan into Photoshop, use Curves Adjustment Layers to first set the endpoints to a more exact set of numbers appropriate for that image. That scan WILL look flat but it will have everything on the film recorded to the digital file. This is the only place I ever use a Histogram - to set very conservative end points - black and white pixel values but not 0,0,0 and 255,255,255 but more like 20 and 240 - ish - to make sure that you're not coming close to clipping. I don't use Silverfast even though they do offer it for my scanner but my basic scanning workflow in Trident should carry over. If you are knowledgable in Silverfast, and could give me a quick list of settings and where they should be placed, it would be greatly appreciated!ĭo you have any experience evaluating negs visually far analog darkroom printing? If you do, that's all you really need. Should I use things like "Negafix", CCR, and others "automatic" tools?Īlso any tips on how to use the histogram to evaluate the negative would be helpful! What settings should I leave on, turn off, or adjust in order to get the best scan possible for evaluation? However, I'm not well versed in Silverfast yet, so using the software add's a variable that I am not sure how to control. I've recently shot 3 rolls of film to test exposure and development of Tri-X film in Rodinal, and I need to evaluate the negatives through scans. Im using Silverfast 8 (SE I think) and an Epson 4990.
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